Oak Trees and cozy lodging make Louisiana's oldest town an irresistible getaway
by Denise Trowbridge, At Home in New Orleans, June 2003
Joviality is a way of life in Natchitoches, aided by quiet tree-lined streets, friendly smiles and the slow-moving waters of the Cane River Lake. Best known as the backdrop for the popular film Steel Magnolias, this intimate town in north Louisiana has a lot to boast. Not only is it the Pelican State’s bed-and-breakfast capital and the birthplace of meat pies and almond iced tea, it is the oldest permanent settlement in the Louisiana Purchase territory—established in 1714—and a great spot for a weekend getaway.
Locals and out-of-towners alike gather, shop and eat in the 33-block Downtown Historic District, a national landmark of more than 50 centuries-old buildings accented with wrought-iron balconies and blooming flowers. The main thoroughfare, Front Street, houses a variety of restaurants and unique retailers like the Kaffie-Frederick General Mercantile. Locals often stop by this 140-year-old hardware store for friendly conversation and to stock up on Nakatosh, the locally produced coffee, and Grits Gresham’s homemade green-tomato relish. Local children and nostalgic adults love the selection of handmade wooden toys, red Radio Flyer wagons and old-fashioned stick candies, too. Next door, fashion-conscious visitors can peruse the local couture, handicrafts and artwork at spirited boutiques like Cane River Treasures, Southern Necessities or The Hall Tree. Cora’s Antiques, nestled in a French Quarterstyle courtyard replete with bubbling fountain, is a prime destination for treasure hunters. The shop houses a delectable assortment of hand-poured candles, sparkling vintage glassware and local antiques.
But Natchitoches offers more than just great shopping. Front Street’s colorful shops overlook the grassy banks of the Cane River Lake, where visitors rest on shaded wrought-iron benches and blankets spread underneath oak trees. The site is also a great seat for the free outdoor concerts and entertainment that the city sponsors. The lake draws water-sport enthusiasts of all types, from skiers and world-class rowing teams to casual paddle-boaters. But, before you head down the hill to dip your toes into the water, stop by Mary Ann’s Gift Shoppe for a bag of corn. The lake’s hungry ducks will enjoy the afternoon snack.
The best time of day in Natchitoches is mealtime. Eating is a fun, casual affair at the world-famous Lasyone’s on Second Street. This mom-and-pop diner is the cozy and perpetually busy birthplace of the meat pie, which is feted every September with an annual festival and triathalon. Lasyone’s dark-green walls are lined with celebrity photos and cuisine columns heralding its deep-fried meat pies, dirty rice with gravy and, yet another house specialty, Cane River cream pies. Dine with a view of the water at Dominic’s, known for casual Italian fare, turkey muffalettas and checkered tablecloths, or Just Friends, the restaurant of choice for gourmet soups and sandwiches. Food fanatics Kent and Liz Gresham serve up fabulous fare, including dishes such as voodoo oysters and shrimp la fourche, at The Landing. Mama’s Oyster House and Papa’s Bar & Grill are local hot spots for a dozen raw oysters topped off with one of the more than 100 imported beers they stock. Remember, no trip to Natchitoches is complete without a glass—or three—of almond iced tea, so ask for this ultra-sweet and delicious concoction wherever you choose to dine.
Spending the night is an intimate and elegant affair, too. Natchitoches is, after all, the proclaimed bed-and-breakfast capital of Louisiana. Visitors can choose nearly any type of lodging, from Creole cottages and Victorians to circa-1920s bungalows. Spend a restful evening overlooking the river in one of 10 rocking chairs that line the sunroom and balcony of the Chinkapin, a new B&B with a spectacular view of the Downtown Historic District. Owners Sharon and George Procell turned the two-story, three-bedroom house into a private retreat suitable for large families or love-struck couples. Its spiral staircase, exposed-beam ceilings, sunny breakfast nook and soft beds piled high with pillows offer simple luxury, and there’s a view of the water from every room.
A short walk from Front Street, the Rusca House combines luxury amenities, such as Jacuzzi tubs, with the charm of a 1920s bungalow. Its luxurious dining room, complete with a 16-foot antique mahogany table, and guest rooms outfitted with period antiques result in an elegant night’s rest. After dinner, take a walk through the formal garden or share the porch swing with the resident cat, Onyx. Other popular B&Bs include the Maison Louisiane, a circa-1898 Queen Anne Victorian, and—a 100-percent Louisiana experience—the Magnolia Plantation Home. The home, which was built in 1830, is furnished with Southern Empire and Louisiana-style antiques and also features a Roman Catholic chapel where Mass is still celebrated.
Because Natchitoches was once a port city, trading post and agricultural hub, many well-preserved plantations are tucked in and around the town, much to the delight of culture-loving visitors. Magnolia, located 22 miles south, is a working plantation that dates from 1753, and its owners still harvest cotton and soybeans. The Melrose is the most popular and unique plantation in the area, boasting eight carefully restored buildings, including the Yucca House. The colonial-style residence in Melrose’s gardens has sheltered more notable authors and historians—including William Faulkner, John Steinbeck and Lyle Saxon—than any other single residence in the South. Renowned artist Clementine Hunter’s murals adorn the walls of the nearby African House.
Literary enthusiasts can stop for a day in nearby Cloutierville to tour the home of celebrated author Kate Chopin, best known for her ground-breaking novel The Awakening. The structure also houses the Bayou Folk Museum. Whatever your passion—antiques, architecture, literature, history or fine foods—Natchitoches is a cozy retreat and a true Louisiana treasure.
